Are you prepared for winter?

1. Location- Find a good place to park it. Preferably out of direct sunlight. Sun will fade paint and deteriorate fabric or vinyl. Make sure to keep it out of harm's way as well. That snow blower will really make a dent if you bang into it! Get an approved motorcycle cover. Don't use a tarp! A quality cover is made of mildew resistant fabric and lets the cover breath letting air and moisture escape. A tarp will hold moisture in. Condensation will form and rust parts faster than anything. It is also easier to scratch your paint with a tarp as it is not soft like a cover. See Our Motorcycle Storage Covers.

2. Change the oil- Even if its not due for an oil change do it anyway. Combustion and normal wear and tear will cause acid in the oil and can deteriorate metal surfaces. Replace the oil filter too. Make sure to warm the bike up first. Warm oil will drain faster and more completely than cold oil. Make sure to dispose of the oil in an oil recycling center as well. This might also be a good time to install a magnetic drain plugs and a reusable oil filter sold by Witchdoctors. They have many benefits and your engine will love you for it! See Oil Change Kits.

3. Add fuel stabilizer- This is a topic that people argue almost as much as oil. Without getting to technical, gasoline degrades over time. Most of us have tried to start the lawnmower in the spring only to find out that it almost tries to start. No matter what it just will not fire. We take the gas cap off and smell that nasty smell of old gas. If you have ever smelled it you will not forget it! What happened? The gas went bad or stale. It needs to be drained out of the entire fuel system and then replaced with fresh gas. You could have just added a fuel stabilizer when you stored it and you wouldn't have had any problems. We recommend Sta-Bil Fuel Treatment. It stops fuel from breaking down and disperses water. With the advent of alcohol in the fuel sold these days this is an important step in keeping your fuel system clean and running properly. View Fuel treatments.

4. Fog the cylinders and combustion chamber- Yes I said Fog it! This is a new concept to most people but a very important step. On newer Victory & Indian motorcycles the cylinder walls and piston rings are more apt to get rust on them. The reason is the alcohol in the fuel. Alcohol absorbs water at a high rate. It gets in the cylinders and combustion chamber and attacks the metal surfaces. If you say "My engine has oil in it so its protected why do I need to do this?" The oil runs off the internal components as the bike sits and gathers in the bottom end. It does not stay on the cylinder walls and upper end of the motor.

Fogging is very easy to do. Just remove the spark plugs and spray it directly into the cylinders. Rotate the cylinders every so often to make sure to coat all the areas. Put the spark plugs back in. You don't want to put new spark plugs in now. They may foul out when you start the bike in the spring. If you want new spark plugs, wait till after you get it running and burn off all the fog oil and then put them in. See fog oil here.

5. Battery storage- There is 2 ideas here. 1- Remove the battery from the bike. Most bikes will still have a small drain on the battery. Clocks and computers will draw a small amount of power from the battery even though the bike is off. 2- Use a battery tender to keep the battery charged. Most people go the battery tender route because it is easier than removing the battery. If possible keep the battery from freezing. If that is not possible you may consider removing the battery and putting it somewhere that it will not freeze. You should still keep a small charge on the battery even if it is removed. See battery tenders & chargers here.

6. Mufflers- Mufflers contain a lot of moisture that comes from condensation on start up. That's why car mufflers drip water out the tail pipe on cold days. Take some WD 40 and spray it up inside the mufflers as best as you can. It might also be a good idea to put some steel wool in the ends. Why? Mice love to build nests in mufflers! After the steel wool tape a zip lock bag over the end to keep moisture out.

7. Tires- Check both front and rear tires with your air pressure gauge. Make sure each tire is properly inflated to the maximum recommend pressure. As it gets colder, air condenses in your tire so it is important to pump them up as to keep your tires healthy. Rubber is flexible and does not like to freeze (it cracks when it freezes). Placing 1/4"-1/2" piece of cardboard or wood under each tire will help keep the rubber raised up from a freezing floor. If you have bike jack that is even better. It will stop flat spots on the tires and keeps pressure off the suspension. Do not use tire dressings such as armor all! See bike Jacks & Tire tools here.

8. Check all fluid levels- Now is a good time to check fluid levels in the clutch and brake systems. If the brake fluid is dark brown and dirty looking it should be changed. The fluids used In these system are "hygroscopic" which means that they absorb moisture. The contaminated fluid will cause corrosion inside the systems which may give problems when the motorcycle is used next spring. Be sure to use the correct fluids and note the warnings and instructions in the service manual. If you don't have the experience to service these systems, contact your dealer, he will be happy to assist you. See Brake fluid here.

9. Surface preparation- Waxing and polishing right now may seem like a waste of time but it adds a barrier between the paint and outside moisture. Make sure to wash the bike very well but make sure you let in run and get warm to dry up any water in the electrical connectors. DO NOT put the bike away wet. Use a degreaser on any spots that may need it. After everything is dry, put a light coat of WD 40 on the frame and engine. It will help keep moisture away and help stop corrosion. We offer many different cleaners & polishes to clean and protect your bike. See cleaners here.

10. Belt & suspension- Inspect the belt to make sure it’s not frayed or showing signs of wear. If it is, it’s time to replace it. Lubricate any pivot points such as the suspension link on a Vision or Cross bike, Lubricate your clutch and throttle cables and check to see if they are frayed. Clutch cables are notorious for braking! Check your service manual for other important locations. See drive belts here.  See cable lube kits here.

As sad as it is to store your bike for the winter, it comes with some positives. Taking a break from riding and having some down time can allow you to catch up on maintenance and care that you may sometimes lose track of during the riding season. With these simple steps, you can avoid any unpleasant surprises when you take your bike out of hibernation, meaning less work when spring rolls around. After a few quick checks and a wash, you’ll be back on the road when the snow melts and the sun shines brighter!